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ShirtMath
ANSWERS

How do I stop returning clothes?

Measure one garment you already own, write down its flat chest, body length and sleeve, then shop against those numbers instead of the size letter. Letters are set by each brand; measurements are not.

Last verified: 26 August 2026

What actually stops the returns?

You stop guessing. A size letter is a decision each brand makes on its own; a flat measurement is a fact about the garment in the box. If you shop against measurements, most of the uncertainty that sends a parcel back disappears before you ever pay.

The reference you need is already in your wardrobe. Pick the shirt you reach for most, measure it flat, and treat those numbers as your specification. That garment has your preferred ease already built into it, so you are no longer converting a body measurement into a size chart and hoping the brand agrees with you.

This page is part of our answers hub, and it sticks to what can be checked: published brand specifications and the limits that come with them.

Which garment should I measure first?

The one you wear most, in the category you buy most. A reference garment only tells you about garments of a similar cut and fabric, so a well-fitting t-shirt is your t-shirt reference and it says little about a tailored jacket.

Two practical rules. First, choose something that has been washed several times, because a shirt measured straight out of the packet will read wider than the one you actually wear. Second, choose a garment you like the fit of, not one you merely own. You are copying a fit, so copy a good one.

How do I measure it?

  1. Lay it flat — front up, on a hard surface, side seams straight, no stretching and no wrinkles under the tape.
  2. Chest, flat — measure straight across from one armhole seam to the other, one inch below where the sleeve meets the body. That single figure is the one most listings publish, so it is the one that lets you compare. Our pit to pit guide covers the seam landmarks in detail.
  3. Body length — from the highest point of the shoulder straight down to the hem.
  4. Sleeve length — measured the way the brand you are buying from measures it, which is usually from the centre back of the collar to the cuff for dress shirts and from the shoulder seam for tees. See how to measure sleeve length.
  5. Write it down — in your phone notes, next to the garment name. Three numbers per category is enough to shop with, and how to measure a shirt shows each one being taken.

Measure twice. If your two readings differ by more than a quarter inch, your tape moved or the fabric was pulled.

What do published measurements actually look like?

Here are eight styles whose makers publish full specification tables. Chest is flat, in inches.

StyleSMLXL
Gildan G500 (unisex)18.020.022.024.0
Next Level 3600 (fitted)19.020.522.024.0
Bella+Canvas 3001C18.020.022.024.0
Hanes 5250T18.020.022.024.0
Champion T525C18.020.022.024.0
Comfort Colors C401718.520.522.524.5
Gildan 5400 (long sleeve)18.020.022.024.0
Gildan G500L (ladies cut)16.517.519.021.0

Body length at M is 29.0 inches across the unisex styles above; the C4017 Medium is the longest at 29.5 inches. More of this data sits in our t-shirt chest measurement dataset.

Why does the same letter mean different garments?

Look at the last row against the rest. A ladies Gildan G500L Medium publishes a 17.5 inch flat chest. The unisex Mediums publish 20.0 inches, and the fitted Next Level 3600 and the garment-dyed Comfort Colors C4017 publish 20.5 inches. That is a gap of two and a half to three inches on the same letter, and it widens at L, where the ladies cut publishes 19.0 inches against 22.0 to 22.5 inches for the unisex styles.

Nothing about that is a mistake. A ladies cut is a different garment with a different pattern, and the letter on the label was never a promise about width. It is the clearest illustration of why buying on letters produces returns and buying on numbers does not. If you want the longer version of this argument, read vanity sizing and why my size changes between stores.

What does Comfort Colors C4017 publish at Medium?

Twenty and a half inches flat, against 20.0 inches for a Gildan G500 Medium. That is half an inch, not two. The 22.0 inch figure that often gets attached to the Comfort Colors Medium is a size Large figure on the common unisex ladder; the C4017's own Large publishes 22.5 inches.

C4017 grades in the same two-inch steps as the common unisex ladder, but every rung sits half an inch above the G500's. Length follows the same pattern: the C4017 Medium is 29.5 inches long against 29.0 inches for the unisex styles above, and because it is garment-dyed it carries the wider end of the tolerance band, which a half inch sits comfortably inside. Read the row for the size you are actually buying before concluding that a brand runs large.

How much should I trust a single published number?

Less than exactly. Manufacturing tolerance on these published specifications runs roughly plus or minus 0.3 inches to plus or minus 0.8 inches depending on the style. Comfort Colors C4017 is garment-dyed, and garment dyeing carries the wider end of that band, so treat its figures as a centre point rather than a guarantee.

The practical reading is simple. A half-inch difference between two listings is inside the noise and tells you nothing. A difference of an inch or more against your reference garment is real, and you will notice it on your body.

What does this method not fix?

Plenty, and it is worth being straight about it.

Where does ShirtMath fit in?

ShirtMath does the tedious half. Photograph a shirt laid flat with a scale card in the frame and the scanner reads its flat measurements, then matches them against published garment measurements across the catalogue.

The honest limits: roughly half of scanner readings land within an inch of a tape measure, sleeve opening and bicep are the least reliable fields, and anything the scanner cannot read confidently is left blank instead of guessed. A tape is still more accurate than a photograph. The scanner is faster, and it stores the result so you can compare against it later. There is no body scanning and no shoe or eyewear measurement from a photograph. You can read the full approach on our methodology page.

Common questions

How do I stop returning clothes?
Measure one garment you already own and like, record its flat chest, body length and sleeve length, then compare those numbers against the published measurements of anything you are about to buy. Buy on the numbers, not on the size letter.
Do I need to know my body measurements?
Not for this method. A garment you already wear has your preferred ease built into it, so comparing garment to garment skips the guesswork of turning a body measurement into a size. Body measurements are useful, but they are a second step, not the first.
Which garment should I measure first?
The one you reach for most often in the category you buy most often. If you buy t-shirts, measure your favourite t-shirt. A reference garment only tells you about garments of a similar cut and fabric, so one reference per category is the practical rule.
What if a brand does not publish measurements?
Treat the listing as unmeasured and either skip it or ask the seller for the flat chest and body length of the specific size. Many blank and wholesale styles do publish full specification tables, which is why they are easier to buy accurately than fashion labels.
How close is close enough on chest width?
Published tolerance on these specifications runs about plus or minus 0.3 inches to plus or minus 0.8 inches depending on the style, so a difference smaller than that is inside the noise. A difference of an inch or more against your reference garment is a real difference you will feel.
Does this work for trousers and dresses?
The method is the same, but the measurements that matter change. For trousers the load-bearing figures are waist, rise and inseam; for a dress they are bust, waist and total length. Published measurement data is thinner in these categories than it is for blank t-shirts.
Can ShirtMath measure a shirt from a photograph?
Yes, for a shirt laid flat with a scale card in the frame. Roughly half of scanner readings land within an inch of a tape measure, sleeve opening and bicep are the least reliable fields, and anything the scanner cannot read confidently is left blank rather than guessed.
Why is my size different in every shop?
Because no rule ties a letter to a width. A ladies Gildan G500L Medium publishes a 17.5 inch flat chest while unisex Mediums from Gildan, Bella+Canvas, Hanes and Champion publish 20.0 inches, a gap of two and a half inches on the same letter.

Where to go next

You only have to measure once. Scan the shirt that already fits and keep its numbers on hand for every listing you read after that.

Scan a shirt